In response to this Wall Street Journal articleโฆ It fired me up. Late last night I read this and was immediately irked, frustrated, and confused. There were so many soundbites, thoughts, and comments that really moved me to think about this and so, I put my thoughts around the plus size market to paperโฆ take a read, leave your thoughts, and if you dig it, please shareโฆ
Is it too late for mainstream brands to hop on the plus size train?
Is it too late for retailers to start paying attention to a community driven, grassroots raising industry, hello Eloquii: One that has birthed and has created our own infrastructure around plus size fashion? Is it too late and do we care one way or the other? Before we keep going, let me just sayโฆย I am not naรฏve to the structures of retail and the business of fashion, but in the plus size world? Things move a little bit differentlyโฆ and as someone who spent her first life in various roles of retail, married with my MBA in marketing, and the 10 years of running The Curvy Fashionista, I have a few things that have been brewing in my headโฆ
I find that there is a bit of cautious optimism, cynicism, and frustration as many of us have been screaming, calling, and pleading for inclusionโฆ Only now as the mainstream retailers and mallsโ dollars have affected their bottom line, and bankruptcies looming start to hurt, do they find them self in a unique situation to PAY ATTENTION TO THE 20-Billion-dollar industry.
Do they see us, the plus size shopper, as their savior? Their saving grace to their bottom line?
Listenโฆ we donโt want to be your savior. We do not want THAT responsibility. We do not want THAT pressure. Girl, we are tired. Weโve been pleading for so long, that we have given up and have started to create our ownโฆ
Even now, with the launches from plus size brands and new launches from plus size retailers, these plus size retailers and brands arenโt reaching and engaging the plus size media (yes, we do exist) which weโve had to build ourselves, because nobody wanted to talk, share, or show news about plus size fashionโฆ Hello, the birth of The Curvy Fashionista!
No one gave a damn or wanted to be associated with plus size fashion and all its nuances and assumptions.
So, we created our own. Our own independent plus size clothing lines, our own plus size magazines, our own plus size blogs, our own plus size events, and our own plus size digital platforms.
BUT to my main point. What do we want?
We want access to lifeโs need for clothes. We want to wear clothes that inspire, evoke emotion, that push the envelope. Give us structure. Give us innovation. Give us inclusion. Give us reflective advertisements. Give us more than tokenism. Give us the diversity of sizes, shapes, and hues.
What we donโt want is to be pandered to. We donโt want be excluded from these conversations. We donโt want to be shunned. We donโt want a half ass job. AND MOST IMPORTANTLY?
We donโt want to date you in secret.
I think thatโs the frustrating part. And it puts us in this weird catch-22.
Now that designers and retailers are including plus sizes, what are they doing to promote it? To make the plus size woman aware that this collection, brand, or physical store actually carries plus? Where are the marketing dollars? And I am not talking about the eye-rolling new phrases to describe plus size fashion (just give us dope clothes).
Pay attention to those thought leaders, activists, and rule breakers who happen to be ass-kicking women of color, champions in the LGBTQ community, or lawmakers and body acceptance advocates for the various layers in the communityโฆ better yet, are you even aware of the community around plus size fashion?
I digressโฆ If you donโt promote, how in the hell are we to know that you have a fun new line or range that we can shop from? Who are you passing the buck to, when it comes to advertising? The retailer? If everyone keeps passing the buck, no one takes ownership and the plus size woman is left with literally nothing, but the blame that โshe does not shop.โ
Attention Buyers, publicists, editors, marketing execsโฆ
You need to realize that the plus size shopper is going to the blogs and digital platforms made for and by us, to get the real deal. She may go read about it from these mainstream magazines and websites, but trust, sheโs coming to us to see if we are talking about it, to see if weโre engaging with it, and to see if we care.
This is where she is making her decision to moveโฆ
So now we have these new plus size brands, plus size retailers, and mainstream brands that are spending their money (like the $11 million just raised for a new plus size online retailer, CoEdition) to engage us, please dig a bit deeper. There are so many independant plus size designers who are killing the game, that CoEdition missedโฆ
How much homework are you putting in to really understanding the nuances, the layers, and the plus size consumer? We are not a monolith; we are many.
- Some of us are bold, while some of us want classic and timeless.
- Some of us want contemporary plus size fashion, while some of us want high-end classic minimalism.
- Some of us love structure, while some of us want flowy layers.
- Some of us appreciate a bright pattern, while some of us want demure and subtle hues.
- Some of us want bikinis, while some desire a classic one-piece.
- Some of us want high end options, while some of us need a fast fashion options.
Sound familiar?ย
Now that you have made the step and decision to engage the plus size shopper, you are not done. You cannot hit the emerging trend of a certain top models in the plus size space and think we will come to youโฆ oh no, love.
- You have to market to us. You have to get to know usโฆ you know, court us. How are you marketing TO us?
- Are you including a visibly plus size model (ideally 16+) in every brand campaign in your marketing?
- Are you including a variety of shapes, shades, and heights?
- Are you digging into the community, talking to those who are involved in the conversation?
- Is your PR agency of record engaging the community, reaching out to us the same as mainstream brands?
- Are you aware of the climate, political conversations, and those who we look to?
Now, do not get me wrong, there are quite a few brands who have made and who are making these steps and changes, but so much more needs to happen! So much more needs to be done and like I said before, Iโm cautiously optimisticโฆ
Were also going to challenge and call out these brands where we see how and where they can do better. And get this! Sometimes, itโs not even just those mainstream brands who are dipping their toes in plus size fashion; itโs also the legacy and plus size brands that been had plus size offerings, but would never include plus sizes in their marketing, provide samples, or even advertise that they carry plus sizes on their site. You are just as complicit.
And I am sure if you spent just a few dollars and a few hours on your plus size business, youโd see a positive reaction to your bottom line, too!
So, to answer my first questionโฆ
Is it too late for mainstream brands to hop on the plus size train? Is it too late for retailers to start paying attention to a community driven, grassroots raising industry: One that has birthed and has created our own infrastructure around plus size fashion?
No, it is notโฆ but as you do engage us, please note, you are NOT our savior and our dollars are not yours.
PS. Need a little help in your approach, research, or marketing? Holla at me! I do this and can help.
โWe are not a monolith; we are manyโโฆ.girlโฆ.yes! I love fashion but plus size fashion offerings still kinda put us into a box. Iโm just a fat girl trying to go to work everyday and to the occasional event. In the trendier stuff, all I see is bodycons, etc. No knockinโ, but we arenโt all the same. This was a great article Marie!
Amen!
Agree!!!
I would just like to addโฆ a lifeless unshapely โtunicโ or long T is NOT plus size fashionโฆ seriously people we want fitted clothing that excentuates our bodies!!! And that does also not mean too tight โbody onโ slutty knits eitherโฆ high end well fitting proportional clothing pleaseโฆ
Yes maam! Itโs all about options though, too. Of someone does want to rock a tunic, she should have the same access as the next woman!
Thank you.
Happy to help!
Yes, yes, YES!!! As someone whoโs been plus size since childhood and now in her late 40โs, I expect my fashion to grow up just as I did. Not everyone wants to dress like a pinup girl, or show off EVERYTHANG. There are many brands from back in the day who made plus sizes but didnโt want anyone to know โ hereโs looking at you Michael Kors, Calvin Klein, Tommy Hilfiger and Ralph Lauren โ and Iโm actually surprised that only Kors and Lauren still have plus (but only carry them at certain department stores or online). Brands need to get a realistic perspective on the market and realize our tastes are just like our thin counterparts. We want it ALL, every choice imaginable, not just some marginalized selection. I want sophisticated work clothes, cute date-night clothes, and glamorous special event clothes. Why should I settle for being under-dressed for my tastes and style? They need to do better. Thank you for the excellent perspective. They would be wise to listen to youโฆ..
You are SO right! I have been heavy my entire life which made high school difficult with just jeans and t shirts because we didnโt have many options were I lived. I just turned 40 and have finally found brands that I truly love!! Umgee, Silver Jeans, and a few others โ I am obsessed with them! I agree with everything you wrote and what the others have posted. Iโm modest and donโt want to be hanging out of my shirt or pants, but to have clothing that actually fits like it should ~ WOW! Or to have it last longer than one wash. We are women who want a great closet also! And in case they havenโt noticedโฆ.most of America is not a size 4. Time to wake up! I shouldnโt have to shop online all the time. And letโs not even get started on swimwear!
I hate that plus size stops at โsize 22-24โ..how about a new term for โsizes above thatโโฆhate buying 3x to 5xโฆalso not all larger girls have โhuge breastsโ..how about large band size with โA & B cupsโโฆplus finding sexy lingerie is almost impossible
Oโฆmโฆg, thank you for this comment. Im a 24/26 with a small chest. Its so hard to get excited about this โplus size revolutionโ, if you will, because the sizes just dont seem true. Its like retailers are doing just enough so ghey can say they are offering plus sze, but in most cases they are only going up to size 24โฆbut its a 24 that fits more like a 22! And forgrt about finding a small cup bra past a 42! In order to grt a B cup that not only comfortably fits with the right cup, but isnt drab and ugly, I have to get one too small and add extenders in the back. Or I have to settle for one that fits but stuff the cups! And dont grt me started on shoes and jewelry! Not only do I automatically have wider feet because of my weight, but they are size 12! Its like the fashion industry figures that only prude 80 year olds have large feet! Finding anything remotely cute for my foot is impossible. Theres huge fashion wave happening for the curvy woman, but in a lot of instances I still feel so left out. Trying to express my femininity is difficult when true still sizes still dont seem available.
Might try Bed Stu for shoes. I have a wider foot but their shoes seem to fit perfect for me. (And they are cute and last!) good luck
I totally agree with Niccole H. I have the similiar issues, smaller on top and in a cup size with a wider band;bigger in the tummy. I like to dress modest, but comfortable and feminine. Wide front feet in a sleek front,comfortable flat, one that the back part of the foot doesnt slip out of because they figure wide is longer, NO! Same length just Wide!!!! I get it, there is not a one size fits all, but we need more variety. For exampleโI walked into a popular high end store that maybe went to a size 12 and I loved the fabrics and neutrual colors and the sale peron told me โoh, our plus size is onlineโ, so I went online and the clothes were nothing like the store ?. For now, I figure I will just have to buy something bigger from my locals I use and have it tailored to my fit. Oh well, but is this 2018 Calvin, Anne, Michael??????
Finally someone said it. Awesome article.
I glad to see the fashion industry is moving toward offering plus size clothes but they still have a long way to go! I am a size 26/28 Iโm 5โ8 and wear a size 12 shoe. Itโs difficult for me to find clothes outside of the torrid, lane Bryant, and Ashley Stewart. I love these stores but even in the stores for plus size they still have restrictions. I canโt find bras in these stores most of them carry a band size up to 46 or 48. I wear a 50 ddd/f. Also a lot of the shape wear is limited in size. Glad we are moving forward but still got a long way to go.
MY biggest fear, they will give us โthe Sizesโ but the fit will be wrongโฆ. thatโs why I sigh when I read these articles because most Plus Size โfashionโ doesnโt fit.
Iโm old school. Iโve been heavy all my life. Iโve always been taught to wear clothes that complements your body type. For me to look and feel good about what Iโm wearing, I need clothes that are tunic size, but not looking like Iโm wearing a tent. It needs to have curves in the right places such as in the waist and in the bossom are to accentuate my body style. But for me it also needs to cover my lower stomach area. I have no hips and skinny legs, but have a large stomach, so inorder to wear pants that fit me, I always have to buy a pair that fits my stomach, then get them seamed in from my hip to my knee, otherwise it looks like my hips are wearing a baggy bubble. Not a good look. Not everyoneโs body is the same. I think if retailers are going to sale plus size clothes, they first need to learn the different body types that plus size womenโs bodies look like. Even retailers like Romans they make alot of tops that are made like trapez tents or are so short that you can see the full stomach. Well thatโs not my style, I want to show off my curves and cover the areas that arenโt as flattering to me. Thatโs what plus size fashion means to me. Ty Cathy
Thank you for spelling it out! I have suffered for years. Feeling like I needed to loose more weight just to fit what was out there. And baggie and flowers do not cut it for me..Iโm not dead yet! Iโm happily married and engage my husband whenever and wherever I can. He loves when I find my chi in clothing..which is rare. Candle to you my Diva!
And stop including plus sized, but not including 26/28. If Lane Bryant has carried that size forever, so should you. I noticed that they all stop at size 24, which plenty of us do not. Grrrrr
Fascinating reading and very well laid out. You did a great job. Great article.