There are certain things I expect from holiday fashion. A little glamour, a good silhouette and at least one piece that makes me start checking my calendar for somewhere to wear it.
But a faux fur jacket that had me ready to make plans I didn’t even have? Now, that’s another conversation.
When I first saw the Lauren Chan x Universal Standard holiday collection, the 1970s Saint Laurent inspiration immediately caught my attention. The sharp tailoring, satin lapels, dramatic gowns and faux fur were giving the kind of sophisticated glamour that makes getting dressed an occasion of its own.
And as someone who considers herself the queen of leather, you already know those faux leather barrel pants were getting tried on.
The eight-piece collection, priced from $128 to $388, brings Chan back into the design room with Universal Standard, the company that acquired her luxury plus size label, Henning, in 2023. Every piece is offered in sizes 00 to 40.
But what interested me beyond the clothes was the conversation happening around them.
Fashion has spent plenty of time telling plus size women what they should and shouldn’t wear. Avoid volume. Be careful with fitted silhouettes. Make sure everything is flattering.
And somewhere in all that advice, the actual joy of getting dressed can get lost.
So I wanted to know how Lauren Chan and Universal Standard Chief Creative Officer Ramon Martin approached designing a collection that embraces those very silhouettes, and what it takes to maintain the details across an extended size range.
I also wanted to see how the pieces worked once I actually put them on.
Because I can appreciate a designer’s vision and still have a few notes about the fit.
Lauren Chan’s Return to Design Comes at an Interesting Time
Lauren Chan’s relationship with Universal Standard didn’t begin with this holiday collection.
She first met founders Alex Waldman and Polina Veksler during her time as an editor at Glamour. Her label Henning later held pop-ups in Universal Standard’s New York space, and Chan modeled for the company before Universal Standard acquired Henning in 2023.
For Chan, returning to design with the brand felt like a natural next chapter.
“It had been a few years since I’d made any clothing, and with so many brands pulling back on extended sizes, it felt like an important time to contribute to the landscape,” she told TCF.
Her concerns about the direction of fashion aren’t happening in a vacuum.
According to the October 2026 Vogue Business Spring/Summer 2027 Size Inclusivity Report, plus size representation remains limited across the major fashion weeks. The report found that approximately a quarter of the New York brands examined offered no size larger than a U.S. 14, while nearly half stopped at a U.S. 16.
That research focuses on runway brands and their online size offerings, not the entire fashion retail industry. Still, it illustrates why the relationship between fashion visibility and actual access deserves attention.
And Chan knows that distinction personally.
“As someone who’s shopped plus-sizes, I understand the emotional and tangible impacts of not having equal access to clothing,” she explained. “As an editor, I saw how often plus-size women were left out of the conversation. And building Henning taught me how to perfect garments in all sizes.”
Her goal for the collaboration was straightforward: create elevated pieces without asking larger customers to compromise on design.
And while Henning was known for tailoring, Chan was ready to explore a different side of her aesthetic.
“Creatively, the masculine suiting from Henning is woven into the collection, but Ramon and I leaned into the sexier, more feminine side too, with dramatic touches like faux fur and lace.”
A little menswear inspiration with a little sex appeal? You have my attention.
The ’70s Saint Laurent Inspiration Is More Than a Mood Board
One of the things I appreciate about this collection is that the design direction has a clear point of view.
The references to 1970s Saint Laurent bring to mind an era when tuxedo dressing became an important part of women’s eveningwear, challenging the idea that a woman needed a traditional gown to look glamorous.
Saint Laurent’s famous Le Smoking tuxedo was introduced in 1966, but its influence continued through the following decade as tailored eveningwear became closely associated with the designer’s aesthetic.
Image credit to museeyslparis.com
That history gives the collaboration’s cropped tuxedo jacket, satin lapels and dramatic proportions a little more context.
And Chan made sure to credit Martin and his design team for the direction.
“They brought the ’70s inspiration to the table, along with monochromatic paintings and some nods to Henning,” she explained.
Together, the team selected silhouettes, chose materials and refined the fit.
Martin described the result as a balance between traditionally masculine and feminine design elements.
“There’s a real sense of seduction to this collection, with a balance of masculine and feminine, the tuxedo on one side and the gown on the other.”
What I find interesting is that neither approach requires a woman to dress according to somebody else’s expectations.
You can embrace the sharpness of a tuxedo or the drama of a gown. You can style the pieces traditionally or do something completely different.
And that brings us to one of my favorite parts of the conversation.
Who Made These Plus Size Fashion Rules Anyway?
Let’s discuss this.
Who decided plus size women shouldn’t wear horizontal stripes? Or exaggerated shoulders? Or anything that might actually emphasize the shape of their bodies?
Because some of the fashion advice we’ve heard over the years makes getting dressed sound like an exercise in hiding.
Lauren Chan has had enough of it.
“For a long time, plus-size women have been handed a list of what not to wear. Nothing too fitted, cover your arms—for God’s sake: no horizontal stripes! And I call bullshit.”
Well, Lauren, tell us how you really feel!
She continued, “All of those tips and tricks to look ‘flattering’ just mean ‘make yourself look smaller,’ which isn’t the goal for many of us.”
There’s an important distinction here.
Wanting a defined waist or a particular silhouette is a personal style preference. But assuming that every plus size woman wants her body to appear smaller is something entirely different.
Martin explained that his team separates those assumptions from the technical considerations involved in creating a garment.
“A lot of those rules were never about fit. They were about hiding the body.”
He continued, “Real fit considerations are technical, like where a shoulder sits or how a fabric drapes and moves, and we work those out in the fitting room.”
For this collection, the team embraced strong shoulders and floor-length hems instead of avoiding them.
“When the construction is right, there’s no reason a plus-size woman can’t wear any of it.”
And that is where I think the conversation should be heading.
Instead of asking whether a woman should wear a particular silhouette, why aren’t we asking whether the garment has been designed to fit her properly?
The Details Matter, Whether You’re a Size 00 or 40
Now, let’s get into the construction, because this is where my fashion editor brain starts paying attention.
One thing I’ve learned from covering fashion is that the details can make or break a garment.
The placement of a lapel, the weight of the fabric, the way a hem falls or how pleats sit at the waist can completely change the experience of wearing something.
And when a design is offered across a broad size range, those details require attention.
Chan was particularly concerned about preserving them.
“I also wanted the pieces to have the exact same design across the board from size 00 to 40, no separate plus-size versions with the details stripped away!”
Martin explained that maintaining the original design is a guiding principle for Universal Standard.
“For us, it starts with one rule. The design stays the same across the whole size range, 00 to 40. We don’t make a simplified version for bigger sizes.”
That doesn’t mean the construction process is identical for every size.
As Martin explained, the team works through proportions during fittings to make sure details such as lapels and hemlines maintain the intended appearance.
Fabric selection is another consideration.
“We chose materials like cupro and satin because of how they feel and move on the body, and that matters just as much at the top of the size range.”
The design process even led to a significant adjustment during one of the final fittings.
Martin recalled Chan looking at a dress and recognizing that it could become a floor-length gown.
“That one call changed the piece.”
And this is why I wanted to talk to the people behind the collection.
It’s easy to look at a finished garment and appreciate how beautiful it is. Understanding the decisions that went into creating it gives you another level of appreciation.
Of course, I also wanted to know whether that attention to detail translated once the clothes were on my body.
So, naturally, I had to try them on.
I Tried the Collection, and Baby, I Needed Somewhere to Go!
The Faux Fur Jacket Had Me Ready to Make Plans
Let’s start with the faux fur jacket.
Because when I tell you I put this jacket on and immediately started looking for somewhere to go, I mean it.
I didn’t have plans. Didn’t have an invitation.
But suddenly, I needed somewhere to be!
The chocolate brown hue caught my attention, and I loved how warm it felt when I tried it on. The hook-and-eye closure was another detail I noticed because it allowed the jacket to close without interrupting the overall look.
And listen, I was feeling myself.
This was easily one of my favorite pieces from the collection.
Chan emphasized that she wanted the garments to work beyond the holiday season.
“If you’re going to invest in a piece, it should last,” she explained.
She also sees the faux fur coat as something that can be styled with just about anything. And I understand the vision.
A statement coat doesn’t need to wait for a formal invitation. Sometimes it’s the piece that makes you want to get dressed in the first place.
The Queen of Leather Had to Try Those Barrel Pants
Now, if there’s one thing you should know about me, it’s that I love leather.
Faux leather, genuine leather, give me the texture and a good silhouette, and I’m interested.
So naturally, I had to try the faux leather barrel pants.
Here’s the thing, though. I’ve never been the biggest fan of barrel pants.
I like an exaggerated silhouette, and with this particular style, I want enough volume through the leg to really appreciate the shape.
I tried them in a size 18, and initially, the waist was a little snug.
But after wearing them a few times, the pants stretched out and became much more comfortable.
Would I size up if I ordered them again?
Absolutely.
Not necessarily because of the waist, but because I want more of that barrel leg effect.
Give me the volume!
The size 18 eventually worked for me comfort-wise, but I’d personally go up a size to achieve the silhouette I want.
And that’s something worth remembering when we’re discussing fit. A garment can fit your body, but you might prefer a different size to achieve a particular look.
As Chan told me, “You get to decide what’s ‘flattering’ to you.”
Well, Lauren, I want the drama in my barrel pants, too!
The Tuxedo Set: A Little Styling Work, but Those Trousers? Baby!
Now, I was excited to try on the tuxedo set. Between the cropped jacket, satin lapels and tailored trousers, this was right up my alley.
But baby, that tuxedo jacket had me working for the look!
The contrasting satin lapels were one of my favorite details on the jacket. They gave it that sophisticated tuxedo feel I was looking for.
And while the jacket took a little experimenting to style, I wasn’t giving up on it! I already have plans to try a statement button-up, perhaps something with ruffles down the front or even a tie to lean further into the menswear inspiration.
Now, the trousers? That’s where my heart went into heart eyes!
I absolutely loved them. The fabric had a substantial weight to it, giving the trousers a structured, tailored feel without sacrificing comfort.
And can we talk about the pleats and that three-button detail at the waist?
Listen, it’s the little things!
Those details gave the trousers so much character. I appreciated how the pleating complemented the silhouette, while the buttons added another element of interest. And the fact that they were comfortable made me love them even more.
So, while the cropped jacket wasn’t necessarily one of my favorite pieces from the collection, I could still appreciate its design and see myself styling it differently.
The trousers, though? Oh, they’re staying in rotation!
The Lace Camisole: Who Knew a Simple Piece Could Have This Much Personality?
Now, let’s talk about this lace camisole! I wasn’t expecting Lauren Chan and Universal Standard to take a wardrobe staple and give it its own main character moment!
The lace edging brought a feminine touch, but what really caught my attention was the tie around the waist.
And you know I love a good cinched waist!
That detail helped define the silhouette and emphasize the body’s shape rather than hide it.
For me, this showed how the designers were thinking about femininity and celebrating the body’s natural curves
Size Inclusivity Has to Go Beyond the Campaign
Seeing plus size models in campaigns matters, but so does being able to shop the clothes they’re wearing.
A 2025 Vogue Business survey of 687 readers in the U.S. and U.K. found that 48% felt pressure to lose weight to feel fashionable. Among those respondents, sizing challenges were cited more often than runway shows or advertising.
Martin made a similar point.
“Putting someone in an ad isn’t the same as designing beautiful clothes for her and keeping them on the shelf.”
He also acknowledged the work involved in creating inclusive occasionwear.
“Occasionwear is harder because so much of it depends on construction and fabric, and getting that right across a big size range takes time and investment.”
And that’s why I wanted to look beyond the campaign images. Offering sizes 00 to 40 is one thing, but maintaining the design details, fit and quality across that range deserves just as much attention.
Martin also highlighted Universal Standard’s Fit Liberty program, which allows eligible garments to be exchanged once for a different size within a year, subject to program terms.
For him, the goal is to make inclusive sizing part of fashion’s everyday design process.
“Once that’s built into how a brand works, extended sizing stops being a separate conversation and just becomes fashion.”
My Final Thoughts? This Collection Had Me Calling My Friends
After trying on the collection and experimenting with different outfits, I’m giving Lauren Chan x Universal Standard a solid 8 out of 10!
And here’s why: I love a cohesive collection!
There’s something I appreciate about seeing a designer’s vision carried throughout an entire collection. The sharp tuxedo tailoring, satin lapels, feminine lace details and dramatic faux fur all felt connected. Each piece had its own personality without losing the overall vision.
The faux fur jacket had me looking for plans, the tuxedo trousers were an easy yes, and that lace camisole proved that even a simple wardrobe staple can have its own main character moment.
The barrel pants? I’d still size up for more volume. And while the cropped tuxedo jacket took some styling experimentation, I could appreciate the design.
Not every piece was an immediate favorite, but I understood the vision. And for me, that’s what makes this collection work.
Let’s talk! Which piece from the Lauren Chan x Universal Standard collection caught your attention? And what’s one fashion rule you’ve decided to leave behind?
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