Why do plus size brands stop at size 24? Sis, this question has haunted our community for years, and while the landscape has shifted since we first published this piece, the core problem remains. More brands are finally extending beyond a size 24 (thank goodness), but the question still needs asking: why did so many plus size brands stop at size 24 in the first place? And why does this exclusion still happen?
Here’s the thing, this isn’t just about fashion. It’s about access, representation, and the systemic barriers that keep plus size women from fully participating in style culture. Let’s dig into the why, the how, and what’s actually changing. Because y’all deserve answers.
Why Do Plus Size Brands Stop at Size 24? The Problem That Refuses to Disappear
Even with brands like Lane Bryant extending their sizing beyond size 24 (especially after Catherine’s sale), and more indie brands launching with extended size ranges, the disconnect between sizes 10-24 and sizes 26+ remains real. And it’s frustrating as hell.
Plus size photographer and blogger Suma Jane Dark shared her experience, and honestly? It hit different: “It’s really frustrating because I grew up pouring over every page of Vogue, but I couldn’t find stylish clothes in my size. Honestly, anything larger than a size 24 was non-existent. It’s gotten better the last few years, but it really sucks to find ‘plus size’ brands I love that don’t include me.”
And here’s the thing: this isn’t just about individual frustration. It’s about an entire industry that has systematically excluded a significant portion of the market. When we ask why do plus size brands stop at size 24, we’re uncovering systemic issues that go far deeper than simple business decisions. This is about who gets to participate in fashion culture, and who gets left behind.
Problem #1: Manufacturing and Patternmaking Challenges
Before we get into the social or economic reasoning behind why do plus size brands stop at size 24, we need to start where the clothes do. Namely, the design and manufacturing process. Because this is where the exclusion starts, babe.
A lot of designers just don’t know how to design for plus size bodies, because they aren’t taught how to do so. Fashion education has historically focused on sample sizes, leaving plus size patternmaking as an afterthought or completely ignored. It’s like they’re teaching you to build a house but only showing you how to frame one type of foundation. Make it make sense.
Plus size designer and patternmaker Rachel Kacenjar explains the complexity, and honestly? She’s spitting facts: “Plus size fit is hard. There, I said it. We all hold our weight differently, and where there might be 1-3 body types that will wear a size 14, there are more like 4-6 body types that will wear a size 30. Our bodies are beautifully complex.”
This complexity requires specialized knowledge that many designers and manufacturers simply don’t have. When brands do want to be inclusive, they often face manufacturing barriers. Alexis Krase, owner of Plus Bklyn, noted the challenge: “Finding a manufacturer who is willing to work with us to make extended sizes has been so hard. Oftentimes, I don’t get a direct ‘No, we can’t do that’ but am told so many excuses that it may as well be a no.”
This manufacturing barrier is one of the key reasons why do plus size brands stop at size 24. It’s easier to stick with what manufacturers already know how to produce, rather than invest in the specialized knowledge needed for extended sizing. But “easier” doesn’t mean “right,” and it definitely doesn’t mean “inclusive.”
Manufacturing resource websites like MakersRow should include information on whether a manufacturer has the capability and/or will produce plus size clothing, and include a resource list on plus size patternmakers. Because transparency matters, and brands shouldn’t have to guess whether a manufacturer can actually serve their customers.
Problem #2: The Dangerous Myth About Disposable Income
Here’s where it gets ugly, and I’m not sugarcoating this. There’s a persistent, classist assumption in the fashion industry that people over a size 24 don’t have disposable income or don’t buy clothes. This extrapolation is dangerous and discriminatory, and it’s another reason why do plus size brands stop at size 24. And honestly? It’s complete BS.
If 67% of women in the United States are over a size 14, then a significant percentage of women are over a size 24. The Centers for Disease Control and Prevention tracks body size data, and the reality is that plus size women represent a massive, underserved market. We’re talking about millions of people who want to shop, who have money to spend, and who are being systematically ignored.
But here’s the catch: when brands don’t make clothes in extended sizes, they create a self fulfilling prophecy. If you don’t stock sizes 26-30, of course they won’t sell. But that doesn’t mean the demand isn’t there. It means you’re not meeting it. Period.
Blogger Marcy Cruz shared her experience, and it’s a perfect example of this cycle: “In my personal experience, I have been told by brands that the larger sizes don’t sell, which makes other brands afraid to expand their size range.”
This creates a cycle of exclusion. Brands assume extended sizes won’t sell, so they don’t produce them. Customers can’t find their sizes, so they stop looking. Brands see low sales in extended sizes (because they barely made any), and use that as proof they shouldn’t expand. It’s circular logic that hurts everyone, and it’s a major factor in why do plus size brands stop at size 24. It’s time to break the cycle.
Corissa Enneking, blogger behind Fat Girl Flow, who is a size 26/28, explained: “I get questions on a daily basis from people over a size 24 who are looking for clothing stores that carry their size. People in this size range are used to having zero options, so why look at new product drops? Brands have to do a lot of outreach so that these customers know they can shop there.”
See what she’s saying? The customers exist. They’re asking. They’re looking. But when brands don’t show up for them consistently, they stop checking. And then brands use that as an excuse to not expand. It’s backwards, and it needs to stop.
Limited Size Runs Create the Problem
Part of the problem is the limited size runs that brands do. It’s hard to sell clothes above a size 24 if you don’t have them in stock. This limited production is another answer to why do plus size brands stop at size 24. And honestly? It’s a self-sabotaging move.
Lisa of MustangSallly2 shared: “I personally am shocked to hear that larger sizes don’t sell online because everything I want is gone fast. If I want a 28 jean from Penningtons I need to be on it right away as soon as they are released in August for example.”
This isn’t about lack of demand. It’s about lack of supply. When extended sizes sell out immediately, that’s proof the market exists. Brands just need to actually produce enough inventory to meet it. It’s not rocket science—if something sells out fast, make more of it. That’s how supply and demand works, right?
Problem #3: Representation and Model Casting
Even when brands do extend their sizing, representation often doesn’t follow. And that’s a whole other problem. “Seeing a model who is probably like a US 12 isn’t helpful to me,” says Bea Alexandra, who is an activist, model and plus size blogger. “Why would I buy something if I don’t know what it looks like on my body?”
This is a real barrier. When brands extend to size 30 but only show size 14 models, they’re not actually being inclusive. They’re checking a box without doing the work. This lack of representation is another reason why do plus size brands stop at size 24, or why they don’t effectively serve extended sizes even when they technically offer them. It’s performative inclusion, and we see right through it.
Plus size staple brands like Lane Bryant and Torrid have made progress, but the industry still has work to do. Lane Bryant has extended their sizing beyond size 24, especially after Catherine’s closure, which shows that when brands commit to serving their full customer base, they can make it happen. So if they can do it, why can’t everyone else?
Alexis Krase of Plus Bklyn shared their approach, and honestly? This is how it should be done: “I find a lot of Plus Bklyn models through social media. I get so much positive feedback from customers who are excited to see someone modeling a piece who looks like them. We make it a point to cast diverse models, all of whom aren’t signed, because agencies aren’t signing anyone over a 14.”
This is the model more brands should follow. If agencies won’t sign models over a size 14, find them yourself. Cast the people who reflect your actual customers. It’s not that hard, and the impact is huge. When customers see themselves represented, they’re more likely to shop. It’s that simple.
What’s Actually Changing (And What Still Needs Work)
The good news? More brands are finally extending beyond size 24. Lane Bryant’s expansion after Catherine’s closure shows that legacy brands can evolve. Indie brands continue to launch with extended sizing from the start. But the work isn’t done. Not even close.
When we ask why do plus size brands stop at size 24, we’re really asking about systemic change. Brands need to:
- Actually produce extended sizes in meaningful quantities (not just a few pieces here and there)
- Cast models who represent the full size range they offer (not just the smallest sizes)
- Stock extended sizes in stores, not just online (because access matters)
- Market to extended size customers, not just hope they find the brand (outreach is key)
- Invest in patternmaking and manufacturing that supports extended sizing (this is foundational work)
Large retailers like Eloquii, Lane Bryant, and Torrid can lead the way by requesting plus size models who are larger than a size 16. This will then lead to smaller startup and indie brands being able to hire these models. And in the meantime, brands shouldn’t hide behind the “there are no models to cast!” excuse. Because there are. You just have to look for them.
Follow Plus Bklyn and other inclusive brands’ lead, and cast the people who are reflective of your customer. It’s not optional. It’s necessary.
So, Why Do Plus Size Brands Stop at Size 24?
Stopping at size 24 was never about what customers wanted. It was about what was convenient for brands, what was easy for manufacturers, and what fit existing systems. But those systems were built to exclude, and it’s past time to rebuild them.
When we ask why do plus size brands stop at size 24, the answers reveal manufacturing barriers, classist assumptions, and representation gaps. But they also reveal opportunity. Extended sizing isn’t a niche market. It’s a significant portion of the population that deserves access to fashion, style, and self expression. When brands commit to serving this market, they find it’s not just the right thing to do, it’s good business.
What do you think? We want to hear from you. If you have a friend who has been vocal about this, share this with them too. And if you’re a brand reading this, know that your extended size customers are waiting. They’re just waiting for you to actually show up for them. The question is: will you?
It would be super awesome if the fashion industry would have short, fat models. I’m only 5’5″ and where anywhere from an 18 to a 22, depending on brand. 99% of so-called plus size models are 6000 feet tall and maybe a size 10. My only splice is that if the garment looks terrible on a tall model, I know it will look horrendous on me.
It would also be nice if we weren’t relegated to garish prints, boxy shapes and polyester everything.
THANK YOU for writing about this. I have felt so alone in my disappointment of extended sizes for years now. Makes me not want to shop or try on items at all. In my teen years I NEVER went to try on clothes, then I found things I liked and started to try things. But more and more styles are limited in store to my size. Additionelle who first ignited my try on experience don’t hold 26 in store and rarely a size 4x. Much like Torrid and other lines. I don’t mind if companies want to charge more for the extra material as I appreciate that’s probably one issue. But give us the option! Simple as that. Really grateful you have raised this, thanks again!
Yes, a million times yes. Thanks for writing this. Where do I begin? You got me thinking about so many intersections. So I’m just gonna share all random style ?.
I’m an American living in Canada. I’m currently a 14/16; edging back down to a 14/12 (postpartum). Up until about eight years ago, I was a 26/28 and lived in the plus world. It was a strange trip going down the scales and finding more clothing options available and at each new, smaller size, I also saw life opportunities up too. At my smallest weight I was an athletic size 10. I received 3 promotions in 2 years and was told, repeatedly, I looked the part. I mention this only to say that had I not lost weight and “infiltrated” the thinner world, I would have thought I was being paranoid about how differently you’re treated and how many more options there are available to you.
It was a profound experience that validated my lived experience and the experiences of all my fat friends and it pushed me even further into my three great loves: fat, feminism and fashion ?.
From sizes 18- 28, my hour glass figure wasn’t that visible – worsened by the fact Canadian plus size clothing is a million times worse than the US. Starting from a size 16 downwards, my hour glass figure emerged and for a while that was strange, too. Shopping got a lot easier and unlike before, the clothing made more sense. Seams and darts lined up. Whereas when I was larger, the proportions etc were way off. Even t shirts didn’t hang right and really, why shouldn’t a tshirt hang beautifully on every body?
From a 14 downwards it got even easier. I went from owning 1-2 pairs of jeans to owning 5, because why not? I had more than one jacket because straight sizes are cheaper, so why not? The options felt endless and it often made me think about the classism and elitism of clothing and how limited our options for plus are and how that perpetuates the cycle.
Flash forward to now. I’m 40 and two years postpartum, I’m about 7 lbs away from my pre baby weight. Heading into the smaller end of 12/14 and out of the higher end of 14. And even that is a head trip. The 14/16 is ‘ok fat but also dangerously heading into fat fat’, where as 12/14 is ‘acceptably chubby but not ok’. I mention all this because on top of being heavier, my body composition also changed (I now have a belly and wider hips and thighs, so my waist isn’t as prominent) so the luck of being hour glass plus is gone and the clothes just didn’t hang right. Although I could fit into some straight sizes, plus was more comfortable when I was a bit bigger. And Aside from the clothing aspect, it was interesting to be placed in a new (but familiar) social category and see how the clothing options correlated to that. Sometimes I feel like a social scientist spying on the world and observing the fluctuation of how we’re percieved based on weight……
Prior to needing plus sizes again, I’d stopped looking at plus fashion. (It was also a time where I wasn’t interested in any fashion really). So coming back in after about 8 years out has been awesome. The options are gorgeous and better designed for curvy bodies, but still $$$ in my opinion. I won’t order from Eloquii for example, because with the exchange, shipping and duty, we’re paying about 3x as much and because they’re online and using tall, young, “plus ish” models I can’t tell how it’ll look on me and I don’t want to place a $500 order and spend another $200 returning the no’s – so a big improvement but Canada isn’t exactly Mars so why can’t we figure this out already?
Having said that though, finding brands like Universal Standard, has been a-fucking-mazing. And ive decided I will invest in their clothing because they’re investing in me as a consumer. That’s not me throwing shade on Eloquii – more just to say I am so impressed by how committed they are. Their policy on exchanges due to size change is brilliant – it takes the pressure off about investing in yourself and your image (cuz let’s face it, we live in a world where optics matter and beautiful clothing is also a wonderful way to express yourself) and what really seals it for me is how they show the clothing on different sized bodies! Brilliant. And I’ll continue buying their stuff as I get into the smaller side of plus because I think it’s important to put my $ where my mouth is and I need those black overalls I keep seeing on Instagram.
A super rando and rambling comment inspired by a great post. Fingers x’d plus retailers see your post and figure out that our bodies vary and as you get into the higher sizes the proportions change, making it a bit more complicated but we’re a powerful bunch of consumers and we will put our $ into companies that make easy for us to buy and make us look amazing – so why miss out on the opportunity?
So true.
As a merchandiser for a plus size store I find it incredibly hard to find brands that go beyond a 3X.
Even the 3X’s I’m able to find are around a size 16 +1/-1.
I’ve tried to take things into my own hands and made some leggings to a true 5X (30-32) but with no experience designing for plus sizes and my patternmakers also clueless, I made a huge mistake by keeping the ankles the same proportions for all the sizes. For the 4X and 5X, the ankle openings are way too wide for my leggings.
We need more education. More publicity.
Unless you’re a big company that houses internal designers, patternmakers, and sales peoples it’s incredibly difficult to implement change because all the information is being sectioned off.
And it sucks because until we clear up these mistakes, plus size consumers are going to be hesitant about making purchases. Which means manufacturers/brands will see the market doesn’t want to spend money and won’t invest in it.
It’s a vicious cycle, but I hope there will soon be a breakthrough.
It’s small battles. We just have to keep trucking on even though we’re edging the breaking point.
p.s. if anyone knows any good plus size designers with good fit that needs some exposure, please let me know!!!!
CURVYKINI has great fit & they’re a startup brand that could use some exposure.
I buy 4x & 5X clothing at Catherine’s in Northern New Jersey. They have draping polyester tops and draping jackets that look nice with business quality stretch pants. I wore these to work all the time, before I got laid off for “old fat ugly woman” discrimination. Plus size designers mess-up when they make the jacket’s length above the hip/ above the butt. No heavy woman wants to show off her fat butt in the working world, where fat is discriminated against. Our legs are usually thinner than our butts. So we want our jackets long and flowy enough to cover our butts. Then we want more fitted pants, giving the business world the illusion that we are actually thinner under all that flowing jacket fabric.
Ask Catherines where they get their longer polyester jackets from and where they get their business quality stretch pants with elastic waistbands from.
Pants with stiff fabrics and zipper fronts don’t stay up. The waist is bigger than the lower stomach area. So business pants made with stiff fabrics always fall down, under our bellies, leaving a big saggy bunched up pouch of fabric below our bellies. Can you imagine how HORRIBLE that would look with a short business jacket? Honestly. Designers need to talk to actual heavy women to get a clue.
First, Thank you for taking this subject on and writing this. Having worked a lifetime in the apparel industry in Design & Development in RTW and Outdoor and also as an adjunct professor, I studied this very issue because it frustrated me. Some stark realities emerged (some of which you called out in your article (thank you very much!).
1. We’ve known for years that the national average size is a 16/18 (check out the Center’s for Disease Control website – free info available to everyone). If that’s the case and you’re a company that is seeing sales stagnate or decline, why wouldn’t you “grow” with your consumer? Isn’t your job to be a service for consumers?
2. The reason I believe many companies haven’t moved into larger sizes is it’s “The Great Unknown”. Most buyers and merchants purchase based on a selling history. If they don’t have a history, they don’t venture in deeply. Understood, but that’s why you test. Large retailers have the cash to take this leap. They would have realized quickly that they need to market to that consumer (since they wouldn’t know if a size scale shifted or new offerings were available). I see this is changing, but still frightening for many companies.
3. There is an assumption that the Athena or Plus Size consumer doesn’t spend money on clothes and related to my business, Rsport, that they don’t exercise (don’t make my blood boil). How this misnomer started, I have no idea, but it is just that. Studies have shown that the Athena/Plus Size consumer actually spends more per purchase than her straight sized counterpart. I’m guessing this is because she buys when she finds because its been such a challenge historically for her to find great apparel.
4. Fitting of garments is more challenging in the Athena/Plus Size range, but it’s not impossible. And as in all brands, some fits will be better suited for certain body types while other brands suit others. Its the same in straight size (Think Ralph Lauren – he admitted to making his clothes on women with no busts…exactly the reason no busty woman could button his shirts without having gapping). So as long as we share how we come to our fit and why we build the way we do, consumers are as educated as they can be to make best choices for themselves.
5. There are constraints that some machines in factories aren’t set up to do (print on large patterns). The printing beds aren’t large enough. This just means designers are working to alter their builds to create well fitting product within the current limitations of factory abilities.
All in all, I believe we are seeing the shift. Those not on board, will soon learn that it’s not a fad or a passing fancy, but the trajectory we are moving in. I was asked by a potential investor if I was worried by creating an athletic apparel brand only for Athena and Plus Size Athletes and not running my size scale down to a size 2 that I’d be leaving opportunity on the table. I told him “There are a great many brands who build beautiful product for straight sizes. I don’t need to be another. By focusing on the plus size athlete, we make sure we never lose focus of HER needs, HER challenges and build product specifically for HER”. I don’t regret that decision and know I never will.
“A lot of designers just don’t know how to design for plus-size bodies, because they aren’t taught how to do so.”
Even when they do make clothes in 24 or higher, they do not take into account a womans body. They apparently do not understand that a woman in a size 24 has larger arms. I have seen clothes for my wife, size 24-26 with arm holes that I can barely get my arms into, and I am Mens size large. Everything else fits well, but the arms are far too small.
They also assume that if you are size 24+, that your breasts are ginormous. So, most of the dresses and nightgowns, have arm holes too small, and tops that are far too big.
I agree with Kevin. Arms are often insufficient for the dress size. But other comments are revealing. Designers have to take into account a much greater diversity of figure types when doing extended sizes. The burgeoning research in 3D data for all figure types suggests that one solution to all this may lie in custom computer-cut fashions for all.
I agree with Kevin. Arms are often insufficient for the dress size. But other comments are revealing. Designers have to take into account a much greater diversity of figure types when doing extended sizes. The burgeoning research in 3D data for all figure types suggests that one solution to all this may lie in custom computer-cut fashions for all.
You know, in the 1990’s 26/28…that was actually 3xl as a size. Somewhere around 2005 it became 4xl…then a few years latter that became 5xl…its still 26/28 but stores can say they now have sizes to 5xl to look inclusive. I know I’m late to this blog but… Its annoying to have 26/28 be..5xl. The great resizing I used to call it. i don’t know haven’t bought clothes in years as…there isn’t anything to buy, really, even if you look at onestopplus. Lane Bryant always stopped at size 24 in their stores, though in their catalog heyday of the 1980’s and 1990’s they were done at size 40. Romans in the catalog heyday went to size 44, so they claim I don’t think I’ve actually seen anything but nightgowns or loungers as that high a number.