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How To Determine Your Breast Shape To Find Your Perfect Bra!

Marie Denee by Marie Denee
9 years ago
Reading Time: 5 mins read
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Penningtons Bra
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Marie’s Note: When it comes to our girls, there are always certain gripes concerns or frustrations attached to finding the right bra. I have always wanted to talk about our shape and how this is JUST as important to finding the right bra as is knowing our bra size! SO when Kate from The Bra Guide hit me up to fashion a post, I leaped at her offer to do a guest post to talk about it! 

If you’d describe your boobs as either big or small, you’re missing something! There are 4 main factors you should consider when it comes to your breast shape. Find your perfect bra is all about understanding the shape of your breasts. Sure it might be fun to be able to describe your boobs in detail, but this information is especially practical when it comes to finding your perfect bra fit.

Did you know that there are literally dozens of boob shapes?

1. Top or bottom?

The first thing you want to consider is breast fullness. Some ladies are fuller on top, and some are fuller on bottom. Some have even fullness, meaning their breasts are equally full on top and on bottom. What you have to do to determine where you’re fullest is look at the placement of your nipple. If most of your breast tissue is below your nipple, your breasts are full on bottom. If most of your breast tissue sits above your nipple, your breasts are — you guessed it — full on top!

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Another way of figuring out fullness is bending over forward when you’re not wearing a bra. If your nipples are pointing directly towards the floor, your fullness is even. If your nipples are sitting on the front part of your breasts, you’re full on bottom (since most of your breast tissue is sitting below your nipples). If you’re full on top, your nipples will be sitting on the lower portion of your boobs when bending over.

Penningtons Plus size Lingerie Ti Voglo

How does this factor affect our bras? Those with top fullness might run into the quadriboob problem, where the cups dig into your breast tissue and give the impression of having two pairs of boobs. If this is you, go for full-coverage bras!

On the other hand, if you have bottom fullness, your breasts might not fill the whole cup if you’re wearing a poor-fitting bra. Avoid bras that are cropped on top such as balconette bras.

2. How shallow are you?

In this case, it’s not a bad thing! Shallow breasts are spread out closer to the chest and don’t pop out. The opposite of this is having projected breasts, which are “projected” to the front and point away from your body. Determining if you have shallow or projected breasts is easy peasy. Take a look and you’ll know!

If you have projected breasts, chances are you won’t run into many bra fit issues. However, it’s those with shallow breasts that find it really hard to find a bra that fits. I even wrote a full guide to shallow breasts which I recommend you take a look at if this is your shape.

LACE LIGHTLY LINED SMOOTH BALCONETTE plus size braTo keep it short, the main fit problem for shallow breasts is that your breast tissue doesn’t fill out the whole cup, leaving a gap. The solution? A well-fitting balconette bra with no horizontal seams might do the trick for most, but it won’t work for everyone.

3. What’s your root width?

Before you take out your calculator, let me tell you that there’s no math involved here. The “root” in this case is the root of your breasts, or where your breasts start on the torso. In terms of bra fit, the root width of your breasts is directly related to your bra’s underwire. If you have narrow roots, you’ll need a smaller underwire. If you have wide roots, you’ll need a bigger underwire.

FULL COVERAGE BUTTERFLY BRA - F G CUPS

It may seem like common sense, but I’ve experienced underwire-related problems with women of all sizes. If you feel like your underwires are poking your armpits or uncomfortable in any way, you might want to consider trying on bras with different underwire sizes. Underwire size varies depending on the brand and model, so trying on as many bras as possible is the best way to ensure a proper underwire fit.

4. How close are your boobs?

I saved the simplest factor for last! Breast separation refers to the gap (or lack of gap) between your two breasts. If your breasts are touching and there’s no gap, you have what we call close-set (or even touching) breasts. If there’s a big gap between your boobs, you have wide-set breasts. Easy, right?

Smooth Boost Plunge Bra at LaneBryantIt’s also generally easy to find the right bra for both of these breast types. For touching breasts, look for bras with a small gore (middle part). Plunge bras are very likely to fit you well, since the gore is extra small. Just make sure that the gore is touching your chest without being projected to the front. If you have wide-set breasts, you’ll simply have to look for bras that have a wide gore.

Generally, you should be able to tell if a bra will fit your close-set or wide-set breasts based simply on looking at the bra, and particularly the gore (or center part).

Need a visual? here you go, a handy guide thanks to SheKnows.com!

What is your breast shape? Image by SheKnows.com

I hope this walkthrough helped you better determine your breast shape, which is crucial for finding a bra that fits you correctly.

Remember that there are many boob shapes out there!

The same bra will fit most women differently. Whether you’re full on top, shallow, or have wide roots, I hope that using the tips above will steer you in the right direction.

What shape are you??

About Our Guest Blogger:  Hello everyone! I’m Kate Brooks, professional bra fitter and Editor-In-Chief of The Bra Guide. I’m all about body positivity, love yoga, and make a mean veggie lasagna!

Tags: fashion how tofashion tipsfull figured brasHow to Wearplus size bras
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Marie Denee

Marie Denee

Marie Denee is a digital marketing strategist, media aficionado, and plus size fashion pioneer. Known as the “walking wiki of plus-size fashion,” Marie has spent over two decades empowering women to celebrate their curves while reshaping the paradigm of fashion norms. In 2008, she launched The Curvy Fashionista, a leading plus-size digital media platform, in response to systemic issues within plus-size fashion, including poor merchandising, back-of-store placement, and a lack of size-inclusive design expertise. As Editor-in-Chief, Marie and her team curate plus size wardrobe and style options from top fashion brands, deliver inclusive news content, and host community-centered events virtually and in person.

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Comments 112

  1. Anne Infantino Rinaldi says:
    9 years ago

    I only a few weeks ago discovered why balconettes work best for me.

    Reply
    • The Curvy Fashionista says:
      9 years ago

      Eyes wide open, huh!

      Reply
  2. Brandie Bishop says:
    9 years ago

    Same but figured it was size not shape is why they work best for me

    Reply
    • The Curvy Fashionista says:
      9 years ago

      certain styles work best for me… lie the blaconette and plunge, other ones cut me funny!

      Reply
  3. Devi Jhaneen says:
    9 years ago

    This explained so much! I’ve been wearing the wrong bra’s my entire life 😳

    Reply
    • The Curvy Fashionista says:
      9 years ago

      woot!

      Reply
      • Dale says:
        9 years ago

        OK so what about those of us who’ve lost significant volume in our breasts? I lost about 176 pounds and am still a big girl. But my breasts literally look like tennis balls in tube socks! My nipples went from pointing at the floor to pointing at my rib cage! How does most of this guide apply to women like me?? I’m not up for breast reduction surgery yet but I’ve got to get on with my life. And how do you fit ‘the flats’ into a sports bra? I need to exercise to keep healthy. The only thing I can think to do is roll ’em up like a jelly roll and throw ’em in something very elastic.

        By the way, I hate underwires and refuse to wear them.

        Reply
  4. Cathy Bugdale says:
    9 years ago

    I often wondered why certain bras look great on some and not on me. it’s not just the girls, it’s the torso too

    Reply
    • The Curvy Fashionista says:
      9 years ago

      YUP!!!

      Reply
  5. Keira Bailey says:
    9 years ago

    Good read thankyou .

    Reply
  6. Keira Bailey says:
    9 years ago

    I’d love to be a plus size Modal lol xx

    Reply
  7. Cat Taylor says:
    9 years ago

    Yay for balconette!!

    Reply
  8. Alexis Schaffner says:
    9 years ago

    thinking ……. no wonder it’s so hard to find a bra that fits properly AND do designers of bras think about this kind of stuff when they make them

    Reply
  9. Susi Mtz says:
    9 years ago

    Great to know. I love LB balconnets

    Reply
  10. Jeanette Kaffe Winberg says:
    9 years ago

    I kept going down in sizes because I got the floppy tops showing under my shirts. Realized size wasn’t the issue. I can’t wear full-cups and I also fit better with balconettes or half-cups. Great realization!

    Reply
    • The Curvy Fashionista says:
      9 years ago

      wooot!

      Reply
  11. April White says:
    9 years ago

    Very informative, will refer to this next time I shop for bras

    Reply
    • The Curvy Fashionista says:
      9 years ago

      awesome!

      Reply
  12. Jennifer Gervais says:
    9 years ago

    I have that bra 🙂

    Reply
  13. Judith Walker says:
    9 years ago

    Thank you, thank you, thank you! This was very helpful in determining the styles of bras that best suits my shape! 🙂

    Reply
    • The Curvy Fashionista says:
      9 years ago

      yeahhhhhh!

      Reply
  14. Dawn Lindo-Morgan says:
    9 years ago

    Glad to learn about this

    Reply
  15. Matthew Zamora says:
    9 years ago

    Her Curves are so great.

    Reply
  16. Nicola Murray says:
    9 years ago

    This is super helpful. I hate hearing ‘we’re the same size’ so the same bra should work for everyone of that size. Nooooope.

    Reply
    • Nicola Murray says:
      9 years ago

      John my pet peeve and why I’ll never have strapless…

      Reply
    • John Murray says:
      9 years ago

      *kicks things over*

      Reply
    • Eric Mote says:
      9 years ago

      [Ralph Wiggum voice] I’m learning things!

      Reply
    • Nicola Murray says:
      9 years ago

      Things about boobs!

      Reply
    • John Murray says:
      9 years ago

      My kinda edumacation.

      Reply
  17. Kerry Roberts says:
    9 years ago

    This was so informative! Thank you…..

    Reply
  18. Elisa Jean says:
    9 years ago

    They’re roughly south-facing torpedo-shaped. Like they’re gonna bomb the ground.

    Reply
    • Stephanie Cunningham says:
      9 years ago

      AHAHAHAHA! Mine are like water balloons with the necks all stretched out.

      Reply
  19. Andrea Krinke says:
    9 years ago

    Great explanation! I’ve always had problems with being gouged by underwires in my armpits once I went up to a sufficient cup size to accommodate my needs. Does anyone know of any specific bras or brands that tend to have narrower underwires but still goes up to around a 40f ish?

    Reply
    • Tricia Lorenz says:
      9 years ago

      I would contact Livi Rae Lingerie on here. They are the ladies that had the Double Divas show. It doesn’t look like you are anywhere near their stores in Georgia and Texas, but they still might be able to help you out!

      Reply
    • Andrea Krinke says:
      9 years ago

      Tricia Lorenz thanks for the recommendation!

      Reply
  20. Jamie Z-f says:
    9 years ago

    This is so helpful!

    Reply
  21. Pamela Turner Murungi says:
    9 years ago

    Balconettes are best for me, I never fill the top of a cup (after 3 years of nursing babies, I’m definitely teardrop), but I need a taller gore (not wider) because the girls are close set & I tend to heat rash in the warmer months. Gotta keep them seperated. For this reason, plunges are a no go, can’t have the girls touching. Lol.

    Reply
    • The Curvy Fashionista says:
      9 years ago

      I think it also depends on the style of Plunge… like some of the LB ones work and do not push right together!

      Reply
    • Daphne Meza says:
      9 years ago

      I have tear drops and think mine are gorgeous lol!!! Try the Demi bra. It’s my favorite. No padding needed if you are a larger cup size.

      Reply
    • Pamela Turner Murungi says:
      9 years ago

      LB are the plunges I had. Girls were always touching within minutes of putting one on. They just couldn’t stay away. Lol.

      Daphne, I’ll have to try a demi.

      Reply
  22. Dana MiChelle says:
    9 years ago

    My breast are deformed

    Reply
    • The Curvy Fashionista says:
      9 years ago

      awww, there are places that can help you find what you need to feel confident! Like Livi Rae Lingerie or Jenette Bras!

      Reply
  23. TR Edmonds says:
    9 years ago

    Umm I’m still confused. I’m round, tear drop, east west. Lol

    Reply
  24. Daphne Meza says:
    9 years ago

    I love Demi bras!!!!! Tear drops 🙂

    Reply
  25. Heather Yvonne says:
    9 years ago

    Meredith Nolan

    Reply
  26. Michele Addison says:
    9 years ago

    I need demi cups! LB used to make some dope ones but now the few demi’s they have are no longer actual demi shape. I was a Cacique specialist for them & fit hundreds of women and I used to explain cups shapes to people, to best enhance their breast shape & it was a joy to see the light dawn in their eyes & see their shape transform with the right bra, lift & shape & support!

    Reply
  27. Neil Honrales Carilla says:
    9 years ago

    Krista Jerica Ong Nogal

    Reply
    • Krista Jerica Ong Nogal says:
      9 years ago

      Ano mn an shape? Hahaha Neil Honrales Carilla

      Reply
  28. Tammy Emery says:
    9 years ago

    Cacique smooth plunge at lane Bryant ! Perfect for me.

    Reply
  29. Rooster Osborne says:
    9 years ago

    Angela Wickedone

    Reply
  30. Jahaira Muñeca Michelle says:
    9 years ago

    This explains my entire life, dealing with D cups! Now I need to go bra shopping forreal! 😩😭😭

    Reply
  31. Gloria Anderson says:
    9 years ago

    Much needed information

    Reply
  32. Ashley Stevens says:
    9 years ago

    I’m still trying to figure out the right bra at 31 years of age. I’ve always been a C or D, but 3 kids have pushed me to DD and sag. I also have a quite short torso and am naturally very wide/stocky.

    Reply
  33. Annette M Silva says:
    9 years ago

    I buy the same ones they are great for my size and they have good support too😀

    Reply
  34. Tracy Jones says:
    9 years ago

    I find it hard to find bras for smaller cup sizes as a larger woman. I’m a B cup.

    It seems like everything is made for my fuller breasted counterparts(lucky).

    Reply
    • Taunya Hagen says:
      9 years ago

      I hear ya!

      Reply
  35. Fern Upshaw says:
    9 years ago

    No matter what I try, my girls always wind up “together”. And I’ve tried a lot of bras… Wish I could make my own at this point! Any suggestions?

    Reply
    • Holly Horn says:
      9 years ago

      This is my fave bra right now… it seems to work really good for keeping the girls apart. http://www.barenecessities.com/product.aspx?pfid=Lilyette434&cm_mmc=GLPA_NonBrand-_-Bra-_-Lilyette-_-Lilyette434&BillboardPopupEnabled=false&BorderfreeEnabled=False&color=Rum%20Raisin&amsk=w9a4hfr3k4&source=gbase&cmp=bpp20&product_id=303649&adpos=1o1&creative=86409445135&device=m&matchtype=&network=g&gclid=CjwKEAjwiYG9BRCkgK-G45S323oSJABnykKAFppNifQPrZGcWJ-k2V7TV4YQelKK_N-iz-blElSJ9xoCtArw_wcB

      Reply
  36. Kathryn Sullivan says:
    9 years ago

    Diane her one to help the team

    Reply
  37. Kristina Batis says:
    9 years ago

    Cathy Woodrick

    Reply
  38. Isabel Voorhees says:
    9 years ago

    Balconette 💯💯! I can’t do full coverage bras.

    Reply
  39. May Sølvi Midbø says:
    9 years ago

    I am big and have a lot of fat, but I’m still kinda and hourglass shape because my body kinda go in on the middle and I’m in porportion.

    Reply
  40. Lauren Nichole Turner says:
    9 years ago

    Victoria secret bras are the only bras that fit me well and comfortably. Even fullness and close set 👍🏼

    Reply
  41. Olivia Moreno Griggs says:
    9 years ago

    Samantha

    Reply
  42. Scott Harrison says:
    9 years ago

    Kerry Harrison

    Reply
  43. Marsha Creary says:
    9 years ago

    Yeah Curvies!

    Reply
  44. Jennifer Gervais says:
    9 years ago

    I have that bra! 🙂 (the one in the thumbnail for the article)

    Reply
  45. Annella Wheatley says:
    9 years ago

    Breast shape? These days best described as Sad Tubes.

    Reply
    • April Wright says:
      9 years ago

      I’m sorry, but that description is hilarious

      Reply
  46. Timia Nicole says:
    9 years ago

    Lawwwd this just gave me a headache!! Someone’s going to have to do this for me! Lol

    Reply
  47. Toni Owens says:
    9 years ago

    And I still have no clue what to do different about these tig ole bitties.

    Reply
  48. Jenny Strode says:
    9 years ago

    Kara Strode

    Reply
  49. Niki Stroude says:
    9 years ago

    check this out Crisha

    Reply
  50. Jill Koerber says:
    9 years ago

    I still have zero clue

    Reply
  51. Autumn Conway says:
    9 years ago

    Tube socks with an orange dropped in them.

    Reply
    • Shay Boss says:
      9 years ago

      😂😂😂

      Reply
    • Amanda Wade says:
      9 years ago

      Best comment 😂😂

      Reply
    • Susan Fitch says:
      9 years ago

      Yup

      Reply
  52. Cindi Beebout says:
    9 years ago

    38DD and this article explained nothing. The illustrations & their descriptions i was hoping for did not match the article’s descriptions. The pics did nothing to help explain the info. SMH Go to Victoria’s or another specialty shop. Be accurately fitted (most of us are wearing the wrong size) and try on all kinds of bras. I have learned a lot from VS the last few years. Like sometimes you might wear a 38DD or a 40C.

    Reply
  53. Sandra Bassvor says:
    9 years ago

    Elomi is my fav

    Reply
  54. Barbara Prescott says:
    9 years ago

    Question: where can i buy the bra and panty set she wearing cause I need a pair (loving the color )

    Reply
  55. Amaterasu Sara Dyer says:
    9 years ago

    Mine are mongrels; a cross breed between a few shapes

    Reply
  56. Danyel Floyd says:
    9 years ago

    I didn’t learn anything bout these triple d’s

    Reply
  57. Chandni Kukreja says:
    9 years ago

    Thanks for this! Really helpful. 🙂 Although I can’t imagine going to a salesperson here in India and asking for smaller/bigger underwire. Sigh. What say Anita?

    Reply
    • Anita Paul says:
      9 years ago

      Hunkemoller is the only store I’ve been to which is helpful like that. Otherwise… No chance.

      Reply
    • Chandni Kukreja says:
      9 years ago

      Where that?

      Reply
    • Anita Paul says:
      9 years ago

      Seems to be one in VR Mall there. They also have call buttons in the changing rooms if you need a size. 😀

      European sizes though. I’m an E.

      Reply
    • Chandni Kukreja says:
      9 years ago

      Haha nice! I’ll go check 🙂

      Reply
  58. Jennifer Haselbach says:
    9 years ago

    A list of specialty shops throughout the U.S. would be great. We all know places like Victoria’s Secret, Lane Bryant, etc don’t always for the bill to help us get what we actually need.

    Reply
    • The Curvy Fashionista says:
      9 years ago

      ohhhhhhh. 10/4.

      Reply
    • The Curvy Fashionista says:
      9 years ago

      ohhhhhhh. 10/4.

      Reply
    • Livi Rae Lingerie says:
      9 years ago

      We would love to help. Send an email to christi@liviraelingerie.com and she can give you the lift and support you need.

      Reply
    • Livi Rae Lingerie says:
      9 years ago

      We would love to help. Send an email to christi@liviraelingerie.com and she can give you the lift and support you need.

      Reply
  59. Susan Fitch says:
    9 years ago

    Okay great. Now how do i find a bra for my type of breast? The cups are always too big on the top half, and the bra fabric doesn’t lay flat against my skin – it bunches up into wrinkles, which show thru my blouse.

    Reply
    • Ashleigh Eisenbach says:
      9 years ago

      Have you tried going up in cup size and Down in band size? Or trying different shaped bras? I had this problem and was wearing a 40 or 38 B when I should have been wearing a 36C. As long as I get a Demi cup and wear the correct size this doesn’t happen anymore. I always do the bend over test before I buy a bra lol

      Reply
    • The Curvy Fashionista says:
      9 years ago

      I got fit by an elomi and Lane Bryant specialist to learn which ones and styles work best… ohhh also at Livi Rae Lingerie! Get fit at a place that has a variety of styles and fits, so that they can cater to your girls!

      Reply
    • Livi Rae Lingerie says:
      9 years ago

      Many of the molded styles found in most department store doesn’t work for everyone. Many gap at the top. We can help. Send an email to christi@liviraelingerie.com

      Reply
    • Livi Rae Lingerie says:
      9 years ago

      Many of the molded styles found in most department store doesn’t work for everyone. Many gap at the top. We can help. Send an email to christi@liviraelingerie.com

      Reply
  60. Debbie Webbe says:
    9 years ago

    Thanks for the info. Now only if the bras were not so expensive

    Reply
  61. Mario Gonzalez says:
    9 years ago

    Mamasita soy mexicano .estas bien buenota

    Reply
  62. Sampat Sawant says:
    9 years ago

    Hi

    Reply
  63. Sampat Sawant says:
    9 years ago

    Hi

    Reply
  64. Sampat Sawant says:
    9 years ago

    Hallo

    Reply
  65. Sampat Sawant says:
    9 years ago

    Hallo

    Reply
  66. Staykoss Mehdi says:
    9 years ago

    Carinia Mehdi EL

    Reply
  67. Staykoss Mehdi says:
    9 years ago

    Carinia Mehdi EL

    Reply
  68. Elysia M. Kubiak-Vindiola says:
    9 years ago

    Samantha Hooton Chynna Vindiola Amy Vindiola-Santos

    Reply
  69. José Filho says:
    9 years ago

    E.muito Lindaaa está morena

    Reply
  70. Jean Noelgomis says:
    9 years ago

    Is ok yes very nice a love you

    Reply
  71. The Better Fit says:
    3 years ago

    Reading this, I think my bra shape is “Side Set” Maybe this time I can finally find better-fitting bras.

    Reply
  72. Sophia says:
    2 years ago

    As you have mentioned with lots of clarification about the bra, so do you know someone who offering perfect bra as per our requirement, if yes then please share the brand name I will surely mark the order. by the way my favorite bra is balconette bra

    Reply
  73. ROCHELLE HAMEL says:
    1 year ago

    OK, I see from this article I SHOULDN’T wear a balconette bra. But ,if I am a bottom full, projected, wide set, teardrop shaped breasts, what kind of bra SHOULD I wear?

    Reply

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